Princess Cut

Having sharp, square, uncut angles, the princess cut diamond shape is square in appearance with preferred length to width ratio of 1.05 or less. The princess cut was first manufactured in 1980 by Betzalel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz, of Los Angeles based Ambar Company. The princess cut was regarded avant-garde then. Nowadays princess shape is a public domain.

Unlike the older, a step-style horizontal-direction facet, brilliant style refers to vertical-direction pavilion and crown facets. As compared with the facet order on the rounded radiant, the princess is completely different, with its straight-edged square corners. The princess pavilion facets are wide at the culet and more narrow toward the girdle On GIA grading reports the princess cut is called a square or rectangular modified brilliant. It may be cut as an adaptation of 50 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle and 25 pavilion) or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle and 33 pavilion). This is determined by the pavilion cut.

Princess cut diamond shape has significantly lower price than a round brilliant. It is caused by the better weight retention during the cutting process that takes 60-62 percent of the rough weight. Rather frequently one rough crystal can yield two princess diamonds, which are made from one stone sawn surfaces becoming the tables of the two finished princess gems.

Princess cut is basically a bottom up pyramid with most of the weight contained in the pavilion. Therefore it represents the smallest of the shapes for the same weight. Princess shape with lower depth percentage is significantly larger in length and width than a deeper diamond.

Natural flaws and additional facets are often encountered on the corners of such shape due to the natural features of a rough crystal. However possible deviances are often not visible owing to a princess cut being covered by V-shaped prong. Such imperfections are also responsible for durability problems. Square sharp corners of the princess cut should be treated very gently and carefully to avoid chipping and cracking.

The princess cut has become more popular than the round cut recently. The princess is found in both channel and invisibly set diamond manufacturing taking diamonds of 0.25 carat or fewer.